Oil, oil, oil, oil

Need Oil for your car? Answer these questions:

1)

My car is Pre-

____ 1974 ____ 1980 ____ 1990 ____ 2000 ____ 2010

2)

Where do i do most my driving:

____ highway ____ streets ____ both

3)

What is my climate where my car spends most its time:

____ warmer climate area ____ cold weather / elevations above 3000′ areas ____ sub-zero areas

4)

Do I drive a turbo?

____ yes ____ no

5)

Do I pull a load or drive my car at higher RPMs? (IE. Do I  use my car for towing?)

____ yes ____ no

6)

What weight “type” of oil does my manual suggest?

_________________ or _______________________

7)

How much oil exactly, does my manual state?

__________ quarts

8)

What kind of oil filter, does my manual mention

________________ oil filter

********************************************************************************************

Knowing which kind of oil to put in your car takes some basic understanding which one use. This can save you money and effectively requiring an engine tear down. It is likely that the type of oil for your car can be found in your owner’s manual, so if listed, use the recommended. Brands do not make much of difference as long as the oil meets the “SH” rating defined by the American Petroleum Institute.

If you own an older Porsche somewhere in the West Coast, and mostly drive highway miles, you might find 10W-30 or 10W-40. If you find yourself needing more street, higher rev or load situations, or around town applications, you might consider using 20W-40. Straight weight 30W and 40W oils doesn’t break down as quickly, won’t burn as fast, and have a higher gas mileage as the blends or multi-viscosity oils. However, if you are in colder temperatures, it makes starting harder. Oil needs to sufficiently lubricate upper valve train components whether cold or warm. If you oil is too thick, that oil will seep to bottom of the crankcase leaving potential bare metal to rub against each other creating higher frictions. Therefore, going to a thin weight 20W or a special uses sub-zero oil “10W” will be perfect in mountain areas, or sever winter conditions.

SH RATINGS by the American Petroleum Institute

–10W-30 : older cars, highway, warmer areas

–10W-40 : older cars, mix of street and highway, warmer areas

–20W-40 : older cars, street, higher rpm, warmer areas (not recommended for cold weather driving)

5W-30 : newer cars, street or highway, colder temperatures. / 30W reduces gas mileage but if cold weather, then doesn’t lubricate well

–40W reduces burning oil quickly, but also too thick for cold starting.

–10W is fantastic for very cold sub-zero climates, but is very thin if you run your car very hot.

–20W should be perfect for any mountain or colder climate areas.

If you own a newer Porsche, using a multiple viscosity 5W-30 will be perfect for street or highway driving. One other huge advantage of it, is that its thin, therefore the will experience less engine wear when starting it at cold temperatures. There are those that want the best which then means ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, man made synthetic oils are highly recommended and worth the cost.

  • Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
  • Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
  • Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn’t great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
  • Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended — in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don’t break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use.CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM’s maintenance schedule can void your warranty.Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as “extended” grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.There are also lower-cost synthetic “blends” that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.
  • Who should use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:
    • Turbocharged or supercharged engines
    • Performance or high output engines
    • Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
    • Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
    • Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection
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13 responses to “Oil, oil, oil, oil

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  12. Pingback: jelqing

    • Thank you for the compliments.
      Oil is an overlooked subject and like everything else, if you drive a car, you need to know about it. Just moments ago, into the shop (A. BAUER PORSCHE INDEPENDENT PORSCHE REPAIR, 444 23RD Street, Oakland, California) a long time customer drove in a very new cabriolet, Porsche 997, and after checking the oil, saw us pour in a quart of Mobil 1. He asked if that was 30 weight oil. I had to say to him that the Mobil 1 is a Fully Synthetic 0W-40. Now he knows.
      Tito

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