Posts Tagged ‘Autos’

Serious speed, turbo power.

Brumos, Kremer, Gunnar Porsche, J.L. Racing, Momo and so many others all wanted to the 935 to another level.  With the 3.2L and a Kugelfisher fuel injection turbo pump electronic fuel mixture would be taken to new level.

Kugelfischer Fuel Injection on a 3.2L

 

By the closing end of the (1980) 935 era The 935 wasn’t just available by Porsche any longer.   If your team wanted a 935 in 1981, they would have to be special ordered.  This required having Reinhold Joest or Kremer Brothers to make a car from factory parts and then further incorporating individualized customizations.    Modifications were very surprising, as bolted to factory 911 frames huge plenum chambers which sat over the air-to-air intercooler.

 

The Porsche Factory also had its 935/78 “Moby Dick” plans given to the two tuners Joest and Kremer Brothers.  Yet further modifications would then need to be used to add to aerodynamics, suspension, and airflow to the rear wing.  Other changes would be changing the material specifications in the frame such as chrome molybdenum steel tubing.  There were also remarkable innovations that included lowering the chassis, widening the front track and better brakes.   In some cars, long-tailed body’s had both aerodynamics and ease to mechanical access from top of engine and gearbox.    Tube frames where very much used to lighten the weight of the car,  control body flex and roll, plus allow better places to quickly remove and replace panels on the body.

If you ever get to see a 935 in person, be sure to try to jump in and take it for a spin.  :)

Chassis Num: 930 670 0161

One of my most favorites competition cars is the  Porsche Type 934/5 Competition Coupe.   It was the 28th 934/5 example produced by Porsche, delivering lightening fast performance. Belgian business owners , Losch and Nicholas Kobb, ordered from Porsche and bought new this yellow livery car specific to offer both owner and driver duties.   Performing very well, this car was raced at Zolder, then only after one performance was sold.  Hans Christian Jurgensen of Flensburg, Germany bought the car in 1976, and modified it slightly.  The car then saw the racing circuit for three whole years often finishing in the top three places.

Porsche Racing Enthusiast Armando Gonzales of Puerto Rico bought this car in 1979.  Almost immediately, after purchase in 1979, sent the car to Chuck Gaa of Atlanta Georgie.  New modifications included a high mounted gearbox to reduce drive shaft angularity.   The car also offered stiffer roll-cage structure for occupant safety.  By 1982, the car raced at LeMans and several other international circuits.    It was then in 1982 that another Porsche collector Kikos Fonseca saw the car and had to own it.

Kikos Fosenca’s raced the car in several important IMSA and South American events. At some point during this time period, updates were made, converting it to a 935-style fiberglass nose and tail with air scoop penetrating the rear screen to feed air to the massive multi fin intercooler. The time and energy to own this car must have been intense.  Still a very fast car, it wasn’t hard to sell auction in 1988.

In 1990, the car was registered for street and freeway uses for four years.   It was owned and well cared for till the owner exchanged for a Ferrari 275 GTB/4.   The ex-Ferrari owner had restoration ambitions that never happened.  Instead, it was  Jim Torres of Burbank Coachworks who eventually fully restored it in 1999. Upon completion, it was brought to venues such as Daytona and Willow Springs with screaming lap times.

In 2008, this Type 934/5 Competition Coupe was brought to the ‘Quail Lodge, A Sale of Exceptional Motorcars and Automobilia‘ presented by Bonhams Auction where it was estimated to sell for $375,000 – 425,000.

The car is still for sale, with an estimated price around $425,000.

I asked myself that question and undoubtedly I think it has to be the Boxster.    In the Bay Area a used Porsche Boxster, in great condition, twelve years old, is selling as little as $5000. If immaculate, a Boxster might run $9000.   What makes this car really interesting, is technical research with ways to improve older cars with internal computers, major mechanical bugs are getting worked out.   What is unique is that this particular model of car has remained about as unchanged as the 911 during its run of years.

The Boxster (968) got its name from blending a Karl Benz design of horizontally opposed “flat” engine and “2 seater convertible roadster”.  Roadster of course being a design closer to the Porsche 550.   Introduced in late 1996 its 2.5L six cylinder engine was a stir for American markets.    Using the old Porsche 928 facility in Stuttgart, in the year 2000 Porsche released a 2.7L engine for its base model.   It became so popular that not much longer later, the city of Uusikaupunki, Finland became the site for more quantities of Porsche.   With then also the thirst for a need for greater power and speed, you could then buy the exciting Porsche S 3.2L engine.

The next generation of Boxster was a type 987.  It was a huge success and finally Porsche had a car that would be as notable in speed and performance as the Cayman… but not the 911.  In terms of recalls, they were limited too simply exterior lights and airbags.  Most have been corrected.

The boxster’s midengine design gave the car a performance advantage by its engine being located in the middle part of the car.   This gives the car a cornering advantage because unlike the 911 you won’t get under steer and your car won’t spin out behind you.   One of the biggest mysteries of the boxster is getting to its engine.  Its not in back, nor its in the front.

To get to the engine, you need to open the top about 12 in, this will pull back the metal cabriolet cover just enough to get yourself to unattached metal cables on either side of the car.  The the trunk cover open, just behind the seats,  you can open the 4 screws and remove both cabriolet chains and lift the top up.    Once there you will get access to to change air filter or check power steering fluid.  If you need to check spark plugs you gotta go underside.   To check oil, or battery or brakes, you get to those from the front.   Here at A. Bauer Repair, an Independent Shop we can help you out (like Pre Purchase Inspections).    Never the less, like I would suggest with any Porsche owner is having an owners manual in your glove box or trunk.   Just to do that operation.

Also..while having it open, clear out all leaves as well.

So.. as the used car of the future, the Boxster will be here to stay.   It’s a great car to own and more and more parts will be better related in buying a new one.

When I learned that IMF Chief Strauss Kahn personal car was a black Porsche Panamera S, I couldn’t help to think of a more perfect car for quick getaways from hotel rooms to airports.

This premium class four door – four seat sports car is everything the rave.  Built for racetrack or parked at executive valet lots this 3.6L V6 is nothing less than for the flaunting playboy millionaire.  Leather seats holds all occupants safely with room to fill out important documents and signing using expensive pens.  The chauffeur would have full control with having trust worthy all wheel drive.  He could accelerate it from 0-60mph in less than 5.2 seconds to get away from pesky paparazzi who only have slow slug moving motor-scooters.

Unique is the Direct Fuel Injection (DFI) and VarioCam Plus to get this 16/24 mpg car all the way to 400 hp.

The French diplomat Chief Strauss Kahn almost made the clean getaway but should have bought the even faster Panamera Turbo that would clean Border and slipped away back to France.     I mean, he must of knew someone was chasing him by getting to listen to the news blotter on his uncompromising sound system by Burmester.

Now if would simply understand that Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger had bought himself a more important looking Panamera, rather than his 911 Turbo, he may have found himself free of similar and drove himself somewhere far.

Porsche 996 The Essential Companion   – Adrian Streather (Author)

If you’re researching DIY projects, for your 996, Adrian Streather covers a number of important topics, in the book:  Porsche 996 The Essential Companion.  This book covers related Porsche 996 options, technology, mechanical and driving skills.  Popularly referred to as “The 996 Bible” you will descriptions about what, why and how Porsche used them.

“The best money you can spend “on” your Porsche 996.”

This book focuses on the technology that is in the car.   It also covers extensively covers projects like simple oil changes, removing and installing new spark plugs and remove and replace the serpentine belt.  The book details projects like water pump replacement, alternator, and clutch work.

It’s like a service manual, technical manual and historical review document rolled into one!

 

Contact:  seanmcr6@porsche968.autowealthmaker.net

or Website:
 
We here at A. Bauer Repair will do full service on 996, engine, suspension, clutch and other repairs.  Though we encourage purchasing the 996 Bible by owners, we highly recommend that repairs be done by a trained professional.   You can seriously damage your car by making mistakes.   

“The decision to keep the 911 in the product line occurred one afternoon

in the office of Dr. Helmuth Bott de:Helmuth Bott, the Porsche operating

board member responsible for all engineering and development. I

noticed a chart on the wall of Professor Bott’s office. It depicted the

ongoing development schedules for the three primary Porsche product

lines: 944, 928 and 911. Two of them stretched far into the future, but

the

911 program stopped at the end of 1981. I remember rising from my

chair, walking over to the chart, taking a black marker pen, and

extending the 911 program bar clean off the chart. I am sure I heard a

silent cheer from Professor Bott, and I knew I had done the right thing.

The Porsche 911, the company icon, had been saved, and I believe the

company was saved with it.”

If your car is like mine, and it needs to go to the shop, one of most important things to do is be able to describe problems with your Porsche. Though its likely your description might be good when explaining the problem, having a short form such as below will help you better describe the problem. If single time, intermittent or always, the reproduction is important. Therefore, even after you have your car fixed, was the description you said to the shop attended too? Most shops will help you go through an extensive evaluation, while others have seen the problem before and would know exactly the fix. The more experienced the shop identifying the problem, the better the shop will be in knowing exactly the cause. On the rare occasional situation, if a “fix” needs revisiting sometimes it’s because it might be a hidden situation requiring environmental conditions.

Below is a checklist which samples want to bring to your repair shop. However, know that the more your write, the closer you can describe a problem. Some symptoms are hard or impossible to describe. They might join a variety of issues.

LIST:

Make and Model

______________________ Year _____________ Modified? _______yes __________ no Mileage ___________________________ Next Service expectation? ______________________________

VIN:

___________________________________________________________

REPRODUCE:

New Symptom YES __ NO __

Describe the problem in one or two sentences.

_____________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________

REPRODUCE PROBLEM IF SPEED TRAVELING AT __________________ IDLE ________

WILL PROBLEM REPRODUCE______?

GEAR 1 _____ 2______ 3________ 4________5_______ 6________ R________N ________ Auto________

RPM RANGE _____________________________

Sounds_________________________________ If so.. where are you sitting and where can you hear the sound?___________________________ Will sound continue if key is off_____________________

Maintenance or lights? _________________ Druck Pressure if reproducible _________

Smoke ______ Yes ______ No If yes, what color _________________?

Leaks _______Yes _______No

Oil Level ____ low _____ medium _______ high

Approximate location(s) of leaks

Front Center __

Front Right __

Front Left __

Center__

Center Right__

Center Left __

Rear Center __

Rear Left __

Rear Right__

Is it a slow leak? ____ yes? (IE… just a drip hanging from the metal.) A fast leak? ____yes? (IE … drips once every hour or more.) A significant leak? _____yes? (IE Pouring out) Color of leak? ___ Black ____ Blue ____ Gold ____ Red_____ Clear _____ Green _____ Yellow? ______ just kidding about yellow.
ELECTRICAL

Lights ___________________

Starter __________________

Horn ____________________

Gauges ___________________

other ____________________

Alarm ___________________ Radio ______________________ Locks ______________________

STEERING AND SUSPENSION

DESCRIBE FURTHER:

During Turns?

During Straightaways?

Over Bumps?

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

If you are like me, you hate flying. However, having the opportunity to drive across country is something everyone has to do once.   I’ve done it, you can too.

All you need to have a key, and the ability to fill the tank 10 to 20 times. Starting at the major cities it starts in SF and goes to Vancouver, BC, Baniff, Ontario, Yellowstone, Chicago, New York, Washington DC, Miami, FL, Dallas, TX, Los Angeles and SF.

I have attempted cross-country drives several time in my life.  It is something I recommend to anyone or anyone with a car.  The key trick is having a sound vehicle and getting some sound sleep.   A mistake on any of those highways can be dangerous, if not fatal.

So what is the best way to learn to drive cross-country, it isn’t as easy as it looks.   First of all get to know your car.  Know about basic things like what should the engine normally sound like, how should the brakes do and if all your lights are operating correctly.    Next, is visit your local Car Club such as AAA and get all the maps, then map quest bed and breakfasts, motels, hotels, resorts, friends stay, campers lodging.   Know also all your expected stops.  Driving an hour and resting ten minutes seems to work for the first 3 to 4 hours.  After about the time, or when you might need refueling, try to stick around the town and get a great rest.  Local restaurants, parks and even enthusiasts garages might be a place to drop into.   For example if in Wisconsin, you can drop in and see International Maserati and hang out for a while.   Maybe ask them to fill tire pressure or check oil.     Another similar site might be Beck’s Independent Repair Shop where they too can perform a variety of tasks.  Here in Northern California, A. Bauer Independent Porsche Repair is a fabulous choice and will service every model including Audi.  If in Southern California, checking out Black Forest Automotive would be worth some effort.   They are located just south of the Miramar Air Base.    More than likely you’ll pass through Las Vegas and if your navigator has learned to use this blog as a tool to get needed information, you’ll learn that Raymond’s Auto Repair is a long time Porsche repair favorite.  Best part of the place is the Sushi digs right across the street.   Blasting your way eastward, you will find that Swiss Garage, Since 1968 is a favorite air-cooled German repair shop in the Greater Houston area.  Go in.. and use the air condition if your car is fine.   Know however.. that humid air can do very funny things to your car, so at very least get your air filters checked.    There is a dealership in Speedway Indiana should you might work your self back north.   Another happy Porsche repair shop is Rennology in Chicago.

When driving flat wide open road, putting the pedal to the metal is hard to resist.  It is highly recommended that maybe to have a Valentine Radar Detector installed to help you keep reminded of speed limits and hard to see turnouts, bends, hills, curves.   Keeping pace or making pace with automobiles around you will also help with the speed.

The eastern seaboard is wonderful.  In the summer its warm and in the winter.. .its cold.  Either way should you need a bit of servicing, in New York, your long traveled car could be serviced by Formula Motors, or if you want to buy a car..like many others, offer sales of both new and vintage cars.    Heading south, Stokes Porsche will be the repair shop worth looking into.

One great thing about an automotive getaway is driving Key West.  The round trip can be a 1000 or so miles, so maybe considering visiting a local garage called Key West Florida Repair would be worthy.   If you do take a long drive, cross country in a Porsche, if more vintage, make sure to have with you a few needed tools.

1. Set of wrenches, including a long wrench for that alternator belt.

2. Battery Charger, plugs into you hotel room outlet

3. Air Pressure unit, plugs into cigarette lighter

4. Emergency / First Aid kit and blanket

5. Picnic Kit and set of tools

6. Map or GPS

7. American Express Card, VISA, Discovery, Diners Club; never leave home without it.

8. Iphone

The record from New York to LA is just 32 hours 7 minutes, on a clock.  I recommend, not attempting trying to break it.

Spring brings us a few things…

Spring Break

Vacation

Get-a-way

Plus mainly that time where you option to possibility of revive your Porsche after its long somber winter’s sleep.  Here in California, that golden shine of daily orb warms up the sky.  With any luck too, those pesky pot holes get fixed.

Here we can reawaken an old friend, sitting in your garage.  With hope, your labor of storage included a variety of “starting the car “tasks and checking the oil.    Inside, you might find a 1/2 full bottle of sun block, fall leaves caught between the windshield wipers, a AAA map that routed your 2010 journey to a neighboring state.   It is also time to remove old beach towels, tennis shoes, empty water bottles.

Depending on which type of route you may have dealt with your Porsche during winter, revival of it is going to be key.

Task 1…. recognize this is a good time to pull out Lady Gaga tunes and replace it with new stuff.   Maybe even by her.  It seems Madonna is getting hot, as with many other artists.      The main issue here is realizing that like you, your car, your music should change as well.

Task 2… Check your registration, license tabs, plates, insurance forms.  Make it a habit to also take a quick glance at any of your previous repairs from years past.  Double check that you don’t have any outstanding parking tickets, nothing is as miserable as getting a boot attached to your car tire when you park on the street.   This is also a great time to confirm which oil / gas your car uses, found in your owners manual.  Try to organize the interior of your car, confirm location of spare cars.  Adjusting your car clock to daylight savings should also be confirmed.   Note the mileage of your car on the day of restoration as well.  Should anything break, you can have record when you brought your car back from storage.

Task 3… Check the tire pressure, oil pressure, fluids.  If your car has been motionless for a few months, get out a flashlight and see if you notice any drips under the engine AND drips under the transmission.   You will also want to take a close look if there are any drips under your brake master cylinder.   If you are not sure what you are looking at, and see any drips, note those.   Check too if to determine if its oil, water, coolant, gas. Try to be precise and accurate where you found it.

Task 4…. Try to look for rust and note its place.  See if its new or have been there for a while.  Also, look for any new scratches, dents, and of course, any little animals that might have decided to take residence in your car.  Gathered seeds, nuts, twigs will tell you more about what went on during the cold winter’s nights.   Speaking of rust, if you live in the where roads might be salted, and you haven’t already… try to wash off any rust.

Task 5… Double check any of your emergency/ mechanical supplies.  First Aid Kit, Flares, Air Pressure, Flashlight, extra quarts of oils, emergency blanket, Halon Fire Extinguisher, Tool kits.

Task 6… Picnic items… .its summer, have with you a pairing knife, fresh rags, cleaned up sunglasses.

There a few schools of thought on even having a car stored.   These people have reason to believe, and its true, that storing a car dries out seals, promote battery issues and so forth.  Even if you keep your car on the road during the winter, it is still consider a great idea to help you car through a spring clean up.

Task 7… Condition the interior, wash/vacuum floor mats, clean out the interior thoroughly.  Every pocket and sleeve to be free of foods, trash, old traffic tickets, car covers folded, wrapping electrical cables.   Items you know you will never need should be removed, no sense in paying all that money in gas to haul extra pounds around.  You will be amazed how much junk you can pull out of a car.  Remove dirt from behind the pedal cluster.  Check all the the seat belts.   Re-adjust seats, who knows.. maybe you grew?

Task 8… Wash the windows completely.  Mirrors and side mirrors.  Do not be lazy about this.  Clean inside and out, and while you are at it, look at the condition of your wipers and any of those rubber trim parts.  Check to see if the windows operate normally.

Task 9… Wash and wax your car completely.  This includes doing a super job on your wheels, tires, opting to condition them to as new as you can make them.  You may have attempted to wax your car before storage.  If so.. just check to see if you completely waxed the body and its free of old wax build-up.      Now this it is warm, you will find  it easier to deal with.  Spending time here is a great way to get your car to spring shape.  Take time to remove old winter’s tar and grime.  Ascertain any chips that need to be dealt with and correct.     A local Porsche Dealership / auto body detailer will help you with this as well.

Task 10… Check brakes, change brake fluids (the fluids are hydrophilic, absorbs moisture, so change them), check transmission fluids and change if necessary.   Check battery cables for corrosion.

If anything seems weird or out of whack, certainly don’t hesitate to get it looked at.   There is no shame in trying your hardest to avert a situation not be in one.   Which brings us to our last task…. fill up the tank and go for a drive.


So I always love the old bragging rights of “My Engine is bigger than Your Engine”…. “oh yeah?????, well MINE is bigger than YOURS!!!”…

I think it’s a human trait to always compare and contrast just about everything we can.  So it brought up the question is how big is big, when it comes to Porsche engines.  If you looked at a Porsche 2.0 L engine and saw sitting next to it, a Porsche 4.0L engine, you might be able to tell which engine is larger than the other.   It would however, be especially hard to know, if the 4.0L engine is twice the size, a 1/3, or 3 times larger.

 

These are clear images of a VW Bug engine right out of the car.

Fresh out of Volkswagen bug, we’re replacing the clutch plate among other things.

 

Porsche 356/912

The first thing is understanding how a Porsche engines is a far cry from its cousin, a Volkswagen engine.  If you are after some iron clad researching, try getting access to real sized, equal liter Beetle and Porsche motors and then try to pick them apart component by component. 

The black and white image shows the Volkswagen Super Beetle.  Notice  how the alternator fan housing is located over the engine generator.   On a Porsche engine, this arrangement is very different.   However, just like the Beetle engine, a Porsche 356/912, four cylinders lay flat.  However, the pistons and cylinders are different, with much different parts and output differently.

On the Beetle, the exhaust system, including the muffler, looks similar to a Porsche 356/901 series, but piped much differently.  For both the Porsche and VW the engines are similarly mounted in the chassis using a few bolts and motor mounts.  The difference is, because of the rounded shape of the beetle, there is plenty of room to have the VW engine seemingly sitting up higher at the rear of the VW beetle (like a Porsche), with the transmission attached towards the front.  Unlike the Porsche, the alternator fan faces the front of the car while on the Porsche, you can see the alternator fan facing the rear of the car.   When making further comparisons between a 356 and Beetle, note how locations of the wiring harness and how different its organized to provide spark to each of the cylinders.   Note too how wires starting from the ignition connect to the battery and from battery to alternator / generator differ from both cars.


The Porsche 356/912 engine is different from a Volkswagen engine.  However certain similarities with bits of modification, a VW motor can be converted to look like a Porsche 356/912 motor.  As shown on this one image, components bolted on 1915cc VW engine uses dual Zenith 32NDIX carburetors, and cleverly attaches a a small Porsche 12v generator.

It isn’t very hard to have the Super Beetle engine look like factory Porsche engine, especially if having the motor topped off with the Porsche oil filler and filter. This Beetle engine “to look like” a Porsche 356 will produce 125hp which ironically beats the stock 90 hp Porsche motor.  This Beetle motor gives this engine added torque as well.

This is an actual, museum quality example of a factory Porsche 356 /912 engine. Immediately, when comparing it to the VW engine, side by side, without the components, you see that it is not significantly different.  Thus, in principal, they appear similar, it is however different enough to not be VW.   Note the higher level of organization, design, and the way the engine is layed out.    Note also everything appears less weak than a Beetle motor.    It is no secret that with enough fabrication, a clever mechanic can almost make the two visually identical, but not indistinguishable.  Size wise these motors are equal. The Porsche 2.0L engine will interchange the Porsche 356, Porsche 912 and easily fit into a VW as well.  So loved is this motor setup,  It is also not uncommon to find a 911 outfitted with this 4 cylinder workhorse. Needless to say, this motor is quick enough for all of today’s street driving.

Mechanics have been tricking out these engines for years.  They have been maximizing flat spots, increasing torque, and topping out horsepower.  They have done everything from changing air filter housings, spark plugs, plug wires, adjust fuel system, and modify exhaust in hopes to vastly improve performance.  In some cases, extreme measures will modify the engines in such ways, such as to double distributor caps and them going into double starters.  This particular modification is known as “Going Twin Plug” because for each of the 4 cylinders, a second spark plug is installed.  The modification will force each cylinder to more efficient burn.  Added benefits including increases fuel economy, decrease in smog, and way more effective power.  Limited room inside a “funny shaped cylinders” while trying equalize how each of the pistons will behave is key to benefit twin plug.   Certain design considerations such as pinpointing “Rod Angle” sets that second spark plug in a perfect, most effective angle.  Testing performance is also needed to best capitalize on dynometric results which show significant power and torque increases over stock. It is important to note that these modifications don’t change the size of the engine.

It is also important to know the the quality of your components will very much affect how the engine might operate. The recommendations is making sure you option for OEM parts, not facsimiles.. especially when it comes to Bosch electronics.

Porsche 911

The earliest and smallest engine for any of the Porsche 911 was the 2.0L engine. It was installed in the Porsche 911 between 1966 and 1969. The engine weighs in at 242.1 lbs and being 1991 cubic centimeters of core metal, it would look as if it handsomely and gingerly slides into an engine bay. Like the same engine used in the VW, its cylinders lay flat and the alternator and fan housing sits centered above the engine. Easily located six single-choke downdraft Solex 40 PI carburetors would allow mechanical adjustments with the hood up. Note location of air filter housing over

The next size up was a the 2.2L. Being just about 200 cubic centimeters larger, or about the size of having 31 sugar cubes piled next to your Starbucks latte, it pumped out a little more horsepower and torque to be a market contender.

You could stare at both the 2.0 and 2.2 engine and pretty all day long and never see those extra 31 cubic inches. The only way to tell is finding the engine stamped with “engine numbers” casted on the motor.

For example if you have a 1969 911T, you should see numbers starting with 619 0001 through 619 8184. These numbers also have a breakdown between Manual Transmission, Sportomatic Transmission, USA version Sportomatic transmission, and USA Sportomatic. In 1970 the 911T will have numbers starting with 610 0001 through 610 8374. These too will have number breakdowns depending on your transmission. What is most interesting is the you’ll find in the larger of the numbers you will see that the bore / stroke sizes increase. For the 1969 911T bore/stroke is 66/80. In 1970 the 911T has a bore and stroke of 66/84. Just to make a comparison of the 911SC produced in 1973, bore and stroke increased to 70.4/90.

In 1973 the Porsche 911RS had the 2.4, which again.. didn’t really look that much larger. Adding an addition metal equivalent of 31 more sugar cubes differences can only be barely visible if next to a 2.0L. Dead give away always should be that fiberglass shroud color. It is important to always match the correct shroud color with the engine size.

Porsche 911 2.4 engines on…

Yellow was the ‘T’ color code

Green was for the ‘E’ engines

Red was for the ‘S’ engine, as always from ’67.

Then 1968 – 1973 911T had Black

As the engine bay starts to fill up to its brim and yet now almost a good quart of extra steel fattening up bore and stroke sizes, the 2.7 sized engine gets a hefty feel. Wider becomes the flat pistons from each other, and deeper the engine falls into the engine bay, its impressive size shows of girth. Gone are the carburetors and in comes CIS with fuel injection. Wire harnesses are organized to power each spark plug individually. At 210 horsepower, the increase would occur due to stripping the car away of its weight by going to aluminum doors and bonnet skins. This engine could propel a car to 150 mph and do it all day long. Its reaching a destiny of perfection in balance and speed. Ride comfort would also maximize as the engine sounded smooth. This was the same engine used on the factory converted Porsche 935 series. To make sure this car keeps all its horsepower to the road, the car was outfitted with the infamous “ducktail” spoiler.

The 3.o L engine was also quite remarkable. It was one of the earlier engines to employ an air conditioner. Back in those days, foreign cars shipped into the United States would be tagged with a huge expensive “luxury tax”. To get around that, new owners would then ship the cars without the air conditioner installed and then have them installed once it would come into the dealership. The 3.0L engine was also optioned to obtain a turbo setup allowing a 1.4 x turbo multiplier. Essentially the engine would result in obtaining some decent outputs. The 1976 version of this engine would be injected with K-Jetronics and have 2994cc. The 3.0 could also clock out above 150mph. Size wise, you will see these motors larger than the 2.2L version.

The Porsche 3.2L Engine is the last of 911 engines. They did make a 3.3 and of course motors pretty much became larger than that. The difference however is that you would also need a larger car to handle both the engine and transmission. In regards to the 911 3.2L also know as Porsche’s “bulletproof” motor really said something about power and beauty. The simplicity (and the complexity) is still there, as with its performance.

Happy motoring!